If you’ve ever owned a pair of new Dr. Martens, then you know the blood, sweat, and tears that go into breaking them in. The subject of many Tumblr-era blood-stained sock aesthetics and current TikTok memes, breaking in Docs is sacred. It’s akin to ritual: All must go through it, if you want to wear them. That’s why it’s good to know how to break in Doc Martens if you want to add them to your regular shoe repertoire.
The old adage that style and pain go hand in hand is dated by now, and we’ve mostly moved away (thankfully) from accepting that putting up with uncomfortable shoes is just a part of fashion — except for, it seems, when it comes to the tough leather of Dr. Martens. However, the pain is brief and temporary if you take the right steps to break in your shoes and boots properly.
The best workaround for breaking in Dr. Martens is to avoid the process altogether by shopping for a pre-worn pair. It’s an incredibly sustainable option and you don’t need to worry about the lengthy break-in process whatsoever. But if you can’t get your hands on a secondhand pair of Docs from a thrift shop or on a resale app like Depop, or you just want a pair straight out of the box, then you’ll just have to do the dirty work yourself.
As someone who has experienced both secondhand and brand new Dr. Martens, I know what it’s like from both vantage points. My first (and favorite) Docs came to me from my mom, a pair of red and blue fish patterned boots she bought in Ireland in the ‘80s, and the leather was perfectly broken in and soft by the time I got them. My second pair, some new black Mary Janes, were a different story, and I underestimated the amount of bandages I would end up needing to stick on my heels as a result of not taking my time breaking them in.
The process of breaking in Docs might require some painstaking patience as you wait for them to stretch out and conform to your feet, but it’s worth it in the end. Dr. Martens are some of the most versatile and durable boots out there, and owners who take care of their Docs will have them for years — re: my mom’s ‘80s pair. And not every style of Dr. Martens footwear requires the same amount of break-in straight out of the box. Vegan styles, in particular, are known for immediately being easier to wear.
If and when it comes time for you to add a pair of the iconic shoe to your collection, you’ll want to be prepped and ready. Below, you’ll find a few different tips and tricks for how to break in Dr. Martens.
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This is arguably the most important step when it comes to breaking in Dr. Martens. Thin little ankle socks are your enemy here. Opt for thick wooly and wintery socks or even doubling up on socks that cover your entire ankle while you wear your Docs for the first handful of times in order to prevent your feet from rubbing against the tough leather. Going the thick or layering route will also help stretch out the footwear, which is the ultimate goal.